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Fitting Class

Just a workbook while fitting these gals' pattern blocks. 

Susie at http://www.suestinycostumes.com/ has written a book about how to make a block for your doll.  These pictures are from her class when we were checking our mockups and looking for fit problems.... they're not pretty, but they're they to show fit and issues we encountered.

Note: a pattern sloper is the basic pattern fitted skin tight.  A real pattern will need ease added and then styles created.  Darts get move, pieces get widened, cut whatever is needed.

Rocqui - SD Girl #2867 #2868 1st sleeve pattern, sleeve cap a bit too full    #2869
#2870 #2871 #2872
     
Violetta - SD13 girl  #2873

Too tight across the bust???

#2874 #2875
 
#2876 With better sleeve pattern?

#2877

 
Front v1.1, still good in front, minus the side budge from the mistake   #2901 Back v1.1, good in back now, #2903 Back, showing lots of leg movement room  #2904
   
v1.1 pattern.  Ease of 1/4, drop down 1/4, curve 1/2, inner line was cutting line... outer line, inseam   #2905    
     
     
The SD and SD-13 body - the differences.    
SD ball joints - old body   #2884 #2885 #2886 - eek, note how weird the the hip area sucks in.. throws off the measuments
#2888 - oooh, arched back #2889 #2890
SD-13 ball joints  #2879 #2880 #2881, same hip issue
 
#2882, straight back #2883  
     
     
     
Blocks - class final    
SD #2893 SD13  #2896 Combo #2897
 
Combo #2898 SD  #2900  

 

Making a Banana Dark dress from my skirt blocks

1) Truing my skirt to my bodice block.

Note: when I fit the skirt... I kept the bodice block on the doll.  For the muslin fitting, I pinned the skirt to the bodice at center front and back and then did fittings.

I matched up from the center to the dark on bodice and skirt.  Bodice needs to be in a certain point, so I moved the skirt dart Center match w/o the marks
Side match after I know how the skirt fit.  I pivoted the side seam on the bodice -- leaving the underarm point and moving the bodice at waist to match the skirt point.  (Long pink line, ignore short pink line) Side match w/o the marks.  Yum, see the back banana dart already?
I taped the two fronts together and made sure the line was very straight for the center front.

1)I clipped at the underarm spot for the bodice dart.

2) spread that dart out, squishing the center dart down to my 1/4 inch dart in front.  (and to get it to stay, taped it.

Still need to trace off a new version.

Clip and Pivot.  Because everything else was already matched...all I had to do was fix the side of the front bodice.
 
Traced off a shift pattern from the dart movement.  This sketch shows 1/4 ease on side.  Seam allowance on sides and shoulder See fittings below... Violetta is modeling (SD13)
1/4 inch side ease.  Looks good for an informal shift, more kid like Back of same
1/8 side ease.  Much more tailored and mature Back of same

 

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This page last updated 12/29/10

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